Surf today

Wen and I went surfing. It was one of the last secret spots left on the south shore. Sure there was some debris in the water, and the giant shadows lurking underneath us might intimidate some people, but we knew that it would be worth it. We could still see Diamond Head, there was hardly any wind, and nobody but us out. With rumors of a good south swell on the way it will be hard to find places like this over the weekend.
Wen, Molly (his soon to be wife), and I are going to Kauai tomorrow. We will be riding horses with Danielle and avoiding the mayhem that is O'ahu on a Saturday and Sunday.